Morning on Day 2

31 August 2009:

0850hrs: Early morning today. Out of the hotel and out to take the tram. Line T1 passes right outside the hotel in Sultanahmet, 3 minutes walking at the most. Was hoping to pick up the Akbil stored value key fob thingy but the ticket office was closed. And the only place selling the tokens required was a corner coffee shop. The sun is out in full force, and when the tram arrived, it was hot as a sauna inside. Evidently the airconditioning stopped working today. Or this is as typical as airconditioning in europe, which is most of the time, not working as well as it should. Which is very unfortunate as I’ve never boarded a tram and drip wet in sweat while inside. Anyway, destination is Yusufpasa and then transfering to Metro line M1 at Aksaray and going to the Istanbul Otogar.

Early Morning in Sultanahmet

The interchange at tram stop Yusufpasa requires leaving the station and passing an old mosque, Murat Pasa Camii (1493AD) with old islamic tombstones that look big enough to be middle age european tomb stones. Anyway, 100m is all it takes to walk over to the Aksaray metro station. Another token is required.

Plain shoplots close to Yusufpasa Tram stop

Murat Pasa Mosque

Aksaray Metro Station

Istanbul Metro

Metro M1 is not that bad. Was expecting filthy and oily smelling european equivalent. Its somewhere between that and a modern asian metro train. I’d say it is half dodgy. Coloured bright orange, just to state its utilitarian existence. Either that or it is made so that people can tell they’re in a Metro and not just some tiled up boring government building. Good news is that a tram token (jeton) also works here at the turnstiles. They look the same anyway, which leads me to the simplified conclusion that the tram and metro has the same owner/operator. Kuala Lumpur: learn from this!

0950hrs: At the Otogar. The metro drops you off in the inside center of a circle of I-have-no-idea-how-many bus companies. Without counting, I’d say at least a hundred of them. Some flashy and posh, others bare and budget. The system here is good. Walk to the front of the shop, buy tickets, then go out the back and board the bus. I started asking around a few and was recommended to go to Metro or Ulusoy company for Edirne. So it seems not all companies go everywhere. Ulusoy looks like a big one, hence it shall be my carrier of choice. Ticket to Edirne cost me 20TL leaving on Wednesday 2 September and returning the same day. I can’t decide on the return time, so will buy it when I get there. Was assured by the people at the Ulusoy counter that they usually have some space left (apparently Turks don’t buy things way in advance).

Istanbul Otogar Metro Station

And one small portion of the Otogar front shop lot

And under it, a jumble of buses refueling and being cleaned up...

1006hrs: On my way to Topkapi-Ulubatli M1 Metro stop, right at the old city walls. This is the inner wall, on the map there are two layers of protective walls. The Topkapi section seems familiar, would even go on to speculate that’s where the last Byzantine emperor got killed when Mehmet II broke through the walls, but need big time citation for that. And somehow I’m thinking that it could be on the outer wall where this took place 700 years ago. Planning to walk down south to the Cannon part of the wall, where the tram station is. This is probably where the Ottomans got through by pounding it with a giant cannon made by the eastern european mercenaries. History galore!

Reaching the inner wall...

Wall 1

Wall 2

Wall 13: By now it should be quite clear that there has been some significant renovation on the wall that went on...

Some parts of the wall is used as store rooms, and grills such as this one is installed to keep things safe.

1026hrs: Standing outside the city walls at Topkapi-Ulubalti. Light isn’t too good so the DSLR stays in the bag. The wall here looks like it is two layer thick, the outer wall, could be pole vaulted by an olympian for sure but the second requires superman. The wall meanders up and down following the contour of the hills, still very imposing in this time and age. Amazing. Some parts are crumbling and others are renovated, but one of my favourite city walls so far. Love it. I’ve read about the invasion of the Ottomans and how they broke through the wall and now I’m here looking at it.

1116hrs: Walked on to the tram line and took it back towards Sultanahmet. Missed the Aksaray tram stop and got off at Laleli Universite, the next stop. Good too as I stumbled upon the Laleli Mosque, a small but still interesting looking mosque. Its a working mosque so I try not to enter this one even though I came prepared with trousers.

Laleli Mosque

Laleli Mosque: Main door

Laleli Mosque: A Quiet Corner

Laleli Mosque: A typical Ottoman has a main square where a central fountain is located for devotees to wash their feet, face and hands and surrounded by corridors such as this...

Laleli Mosque: Some central washing area are elaborate, this one is average, but interesting in its own way...

Laleli Mosque: Entrance to the main hall, the plastic container holds plastic bags to hold shoes. Mosques. No shoes... remember?

Lunch will be early today. Its noon and I think I need to refuel. Simple lunch of kofte meatballs in sandwich garnished with bell peppers and strangely they stuff fries into the sandwich too. Not too filling, giving some room for another meal around teatime later on.

A little walk later and I’m at the grand arches of Emperor Valens’ Aqueduct. Didn’t expect to hit this thingy. And from here, one can see another part of Istanbul behind the aqueduct. I tried a few lenses to see which one works. Right after I fell for the oldest trick in a conman’s book, targeting a traveller’s compassion. A shoeshine guy comes, drops his brush and when you pick it up he offers a free scrub, when you accept it, he goes on talking about sick baby etc and asks for donation. When I took out my wallet he sees a wad of cash and dips his hands into it. Quick reflexes pulls it back, realises all these story is a whole load of crock, if he was desperate, rudeness is a reason to get nothing. One lesson. Never speak to anyone on the streets of Istanbul. Bastards. Would have beaten up the guy next time he comes up to me. Asshole.

Emperor Valen's Aqueduct

Valens Aqueduct: Up close

... The condition of this monument is amazing...

Still a long way to walk today. I have barely begun. Took time off having turkish tea cay at Sehzade Mehmed Sofrasi in Sehzadebasi Camii, a nice restaurant in the courtyard of an mosque. Probably old but not too sure. Tried to order figs for dessert but since it is Ramadan, they only have some pudding for dessert. No pudding. But since this is Ramadan, the manager didn’t want to accept payment for the tea. Can’t do much more than to thank him profusely. Restoring my faith in humanity for a while.

Sehzade Mehmed Sofrasi: Time for a little break...

1330hrs: Spent some time hanging around Sehzade Mehmet Mosque (1543AD), a nice looking mosque built by Mimar Sinan, my second one on this trip. It takes up quite a large tract of real estate to the west of the Bazaar area of Istanbul.

Sehzade Mosque

Sehzade Mosque: Up close

Sehzade Mosque: Ottoman era mosques seem to all have this stalactite style entrances. They look appropriately right where they should be.

Sehzade Mosque: Central fountain

Sehzade Mosque: Surrounded by tomb stones of notable people of the past

After a little stroll throught the backlanes, got to Suleymaniye Camii (1557AD), another domed mosque Ottoman-style. But not before getting stopped by people hoping to appear in my photos. This mosque has more tourists that the usual mosque which suggests it is popular among the Lonely Planet carrying tourists. I walked around the courtyard looking for a good vantage point to take a snap or two.

Backlane along Suleymaniye Street

Two old residents sit in the shade sipping tea with Suleymaniye Mosque in the background

Local kids love to have their pictures taken by aliens (read: people who look like Japanese)

Right behind the mosque is the tomb of Sultan Suleyman, bigger than most tombs of course, and apparently a super Sultan during the heyday of the Ottoman era. I’ll have to read up on this after the trip. Two other sultans are buried under a rotunda with a constant dose of burnt incense filling the air. The Sultan’s wife and daughter are buried in there as well, but smaller grave. Other than taking off your shoes, no other formalities when the room. There are old women praying inside the room as well.

Suleymaniye Mosque

Suleymaniye Mosque: Auxiliary building that houses the graves of Sultan Suleymaniye, among others...

Suleymaniye Mosque: Entrance to main hall

Suleymaniye Mosque: Any time is prayer time

The inside of the mosque is mainly under renovation and only a small right wing of the mosque was open for prayers and visiting, so it is difficult to know what the popularity of this is all about. After finishing my roll of tri-x I visited the second floor balcony, which by the way, looked like an exceptionally peaceful place to hang around with women reading the quran. Took a couple of shots underexposed by a stop to give it the look I want. Too bad the rest of this mosque is not opened at this moment. Did I mention this mosque is another of Mimar Sinan’s design?

Suleymaniye Mosque: Stairs up to second floor terrace

Suleymaniye Mosque: Peaceful Quran reading area on the second floor

Tome of Mimar Sinan the Architect, just across the road from Suleymaniye Mosque, which books claim is his favourite work.

One of the metal ware shops around the perimeter of Istanbul University

Just about anywhere in Istanbul, you get people sitting on the sidewalks just chatting away. Somewhere in the picture they should have a small cup of tea.

Which way to go? Shopping? Or bath?

1541hrs: Now at Beyazit Camii after going around the perimeter of Istanbul university. Its located on a largish square overlooking the main entrance of Istanbul University. By now all the Ottoman era mosques start to look the same. Spent a few minutes inside. There should be three more hours of sunshine today and with a freshly loaded M6 with ERA100, it’s time to take a walk down the main Divan Yolu Caddesi back to Sultanahmet.

Istanbul University

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque, right next to the university and Grand Bazaar

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque: Interiors

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque: What a bird sees when inside

1601hrs: Grand Bazaar… This the type of place I want to avoid. Big and popular and really nothing I really want to buy. The kind of place where tourists make nice prey. It was not as tight and shady as I thought it was, what a waste as I had another roll of Tri-X ready to shoot some grainy B&W but it doesn’t look as great as I expected. Took some pictures with the ERA100 and recorded a sound clip or two, and very quickly I was out of the Grand Bazaar and walking the road back.

Grand Bazaar entrance: Don't be mistaken, there are infinite number of entrances to this market...

Istanbul Grand Bazaar

1617hrs: Atik Ali Pasa Mosque (1496AD) is another mosque on the circuit but I will not take off my shoes for this one. I have seen a mosque too many now for today. Time to continue down Divan Yolu. Along the way, you get to pass graves of notable people, and the interesting bit for me is a monument called the Cemberlitas, erected when Constantinople was the capital of the Roman empire around 300AD. All I got to see is a noticeboard saying it is so and a large scafolding covering the whole column. Looking right at the Camberlitas is a juice shop so its time for me to load up some vitamins. Went for promegranate plus orange, which is sour-ish and acid-y as hell. Paid 5TL for that combo which is made with juice only and nothing added to it. Great!

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: Quiet mosque just outside of the Grand Bazaar, great for people shots like this one...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: My favourite portrait of the trip. A worker taking a break and day dreaming...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: Mosques are a good place to take a rest from a hot day, especially during the month of Ramadan...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: But also attracts beggars and street sellers... Harmless though.

The Camberlitas, under restoration

A little while more down the road is another cemetery with a building containing the grave of some old Ottoman Sultan. Nah, enough of those as well.

1706hrs: Now this is a revelation. Next to the well known Basilica Cistern, is Binbirdirek Cistern, notably smaller by a bit, but is mostly dry and, when I was there, contains an art gallery and a restaurant. 10TL is the entrance fee and includes a cup of coffee or tea at the cafe inside. Background music is present here and the lighting is slightly brighter than the Basilica Cistern and none of those red accent lights – it is possible to see in better detail the whole cistern. I skip the free drinks and it is time for a quick dinner.

Birbindirek Cistern Interior

Birbindirek Cistern: Cafe inside the cistern

1721hrs: Figured that since one of the shop last night had very long queue for its Kofte, it is time for me to eat there. Shop is called Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi. Inside looked like time was stuck at the 1930s, waiters with aprons, and smart clothing. I ordered Ayran (some yoghurt drink similar to the indian lassi), a portion of Kofte which comes with preserved green chilli, and a pilaf of rice. Best damn kofte I have ever tried (though my lifetime tally is just 2).

Kofte shop

Dinner: Ayran, Kofte, rice, Salad

1830hrs: Had some time left today, so took the train hugging the coast to Yenikapi Docks to get tickets for Thursday’s trip. The trains are old and it looks like only thugs and gangsters take this train. It’s possible to force the door open so you get all these thugs sticking half their body outside the train door. But it also helps them to get off the train a few seconds earlier by jumping off it before the train stops.

At Yenikapi, bought a boat ticket for going to Yalova on the third of September. There seems to be boat trips all the way to Bursa, which I might use on the return trip. 13TL for the ticket, not too bad.

Cankutaran train station

TCCD Trains in Istanbul, nothing to shout about. Barely presentable...

Yenikapi pier vehicle entrance

Buying tickets for ferries are not that difficult at Yenikapi. I had to go through xray and other security apparatuses though, something I’m not too keen on going through all the time with all the film in  my hand carry bag. But there is no choice.

Few minutes later, I’m back on the TCCD hoping to get to the waterfront overlooking Anatolia to see the evening glow before the sun sets.

1941hrs: Watching the sun setting on the European side of the Bosphorus. There are hills on this side, so around 1915hrs the Anatolian side will bask in orange glow and suddenly it becomes normal again when the sun dips below the hills. At this moment, it is still bright but that is all, no more spectacular colours. Took a picture of the houses on the other side before sitting down to type this in while the feeling of staring at the Bosphorus outside the old Constantinople city wall is still fresh. Did a 10 min recording of ambient sound while waiting for the skies to turn dark as darkness sets in. The ferry boats chugs along and once in a while, an oil tanker from the Black Sea comes along.

Plenty of anglers along Kennedy Avenue

Proof that Turks are good business men. Where there are anglers, there are peddlers...

Sea of Marmara

Bosphorus Bridge in the distance

One more angler...

Sunset over Istanbul on Day 2

Blue Mosque at night

Bosphorus Bridge at night

And during this Ramadan month, Sultanahmet Square comes alive with plenty of food stall, band performances, traditional dances and the whole place is just packed with people the whole month. They break fast on the grass in the park, mostly large families eating together. Tourists get to see all these show of culture in one small location.

Theodosius' Obelisk at Sultanahmet Square

Continue to Day 3…

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Turkish Flag at Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

The Bosphorus and Anatolia from Topkapi Palace

30 August 2009:
Had running nose a few days before the trip and on the verge of getting fever. Not such a good idea in this day and age. However, I was recommended a a lifesaver tablet – Actifed to handle the runny nose, with a pleasant side effect where it knocks you out cold. Took it 30mins before the flight and I was sleeping all the way. Had to wake up in Dubai, thanks to the landing, but was asleep again once we took off.

0805hrs: Arrived at Istanbul IST, early in the morning. As I was able to sleep all the way, even with the time difference, I was all full of energy and can’t wait to start the day. I’ve got a small little backpack in the cargo hold, so waiting at the conveyor belt number 3 for my lone backpack to emerge. Not too much time to take in whatever atmosphere is here at the airport, I’m just thinking about checking into a hotel, get a nice shower and then start wandering around Sultanahmet.

0839hrs: Arranged for a hotel pickup since I’m not in the mood to take a taxi. While waiting for the car to arrive, was able to chat with the caretaker over a cup of tea. This is my first cup of authentic Turkish tea made by a Turk, and it tastes like any ol standard Lipton tea left to brew for a long time so that it is thick.

On Kennedy Ave next to the sea of Marmara

The trip from the airport to Sultanahmet is quite scenic in itself. I have been going through the satellite maps of the route a few times, and I could tell which road the driver was taking. The view over the Sea of Marmara with what looks like oil tankers from the Balkans are just confirmation that I’m finally here. I don’t get to see too many large ULCCs here, perhaps because it has to squeeze through the small-ish Bosphorus straits.

The first thing one does in old Istanbul is to stumble upon a park between the mosque and Aya Sofia. This one looks towards the mosque.

Sultanahmet Mosque from the park

Detailed look at Sultanahmet Mosque

Aya Sofia from the park

This guy looks like thug-ish enough to have me use up a frame of film on him. Around Sultanahmet/Blue Mosque.

Unrelated street shot in the touristy part of Istanbul, but since this was taken on the same day, it justifies it's right to be on this page.

1113hrs: I have been out of the hotel for some time now, and having tea with Cengiz the carpet seller. Quite obvious he is taking his time to gain my trust and sell me a carpet or two. I was not too glad to have to oblige. If I’m short of time, I’d rather spend it moving around the city rather than chat about life, China, and women. While in there, I dreamt up my solution in the future: I will stick in my ipod ear buds so that I can ignore future carpet sellers without offending them. Anyway, if that is the sale tactic, I don’t think they would be offended.

Once out of the shop, I have to quickly parse together all the parameters for the day, what to do now and what to put off to another day. The sun is out, the sky is blue, and eventually the plan on day 1 would be to handle Topkapi Palace first and after that Sultanahmet Mosque next. The Aya Sofia can wait for another day, where I plan to spend at least half a day. As it is indoor (i.e. large building) I can do it even when the weather is not that great.

Entrance to Topkapi Palace

1152hrs: Strolling into Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi). Entrance fee is  20TL. I have no idea how much that is, and it feels cheap as the number is small. But I am aware that the new Turkish Lira is very very close to the US Dollar. Even small bottles of mineral water here feels cheap at 1TL at tourist areas, and 0.5TL in more conventional shops.

There are so much detail inside the palace, I'm just going to call this Interior Shot 1, and so on... No way I could remember where they were shot.

Interior Shot 2: At least I remember this one was shot at the Harem part of the palace

Interior Shot 3: So is this one

Interior Shot 4

More interior of the Harem section of the palace

Some parts of the palace can get dark and narrow. I doubt the Sultans ever venture here...

First stop at the palace is the Harem. An additional ticket is required. The Courtyard of the Harem Eunuchs is quite interesting. Blue tiles from Iznik are everywhere and Islamic calligraphy surround the courtyard. Apparently this place was renovated in 1665 after a fire.

Didn’t know that the main entrance of the Harem started inside the building. It opens into a courtyard, with a modern fire hydrant in the middle. Makes sense that the eunuchs live outside the Harem! Then again, if the eunuchs were castrated, then there is no harm that they hang around the harem! Anyway, the entrance is small, enough for a double door and greeted by two large mirrors.

Interesting ceiling design...

Like in China, guards here are quite laid back...

Interior Shot 5: Ceiling portholes for the skylight

Interior Shot 6: This has to be a major Sultan chillout or audience room, again at the Harem

After a few alleyways, you notice that this harem is lighted not with lamps, even with all the small dark alleyways. There are light shafts in the shape of hexagons topped with glass providing natural lighting. Again, all walls lined with motif tiles, I need to get one of those Iznik tiles for souvenir. They look nice in vibrant blue. The Queen Mother’s room has a nice dome covered in motifs, and chandelier hanging down from it. Some dodgy mannequins complete the look. They look like they used to adorn the display of a departmental store.

I’ve never intended to turn this blog into a page out of a Lonely Planet guide, so I shall refrain from describing every single second, if I can help it. But it is not everyday someone has a mobile phone blogging away while in the midst of visiting a historical place.

1316hrs: Resting after going through half of the Harem. This place is huge and plenty of rooms to go through if you take your time. While at the courtyard of the Sultan’s Favourites (wondering favourite what), the noontime prayer is in full swing. Here, part of the Bosphorus and Anatolia is visible, and so are the sounds coming from all the mosques in the city. Good that I have my audio recorder with me, and I’m recording it right now, while checking out the details that are all around me.

Details from the Courtyard of the Harem

This palace is just filled with tiles from Iznik...

... and very quickly I lose track of the number of designs that are in this single courtyard...

... and another, notice they're all in shades of cobalt blue...

...and just to break the flow, here's a little detail of the ceiling of the courtyard roofing

More from the courtyard

One final one, everything here is amazingly detailed

Looking out onto the courtyard

1358hrs: At the Topkapi Palace treasury after visiting the Sultan’s clothes. There are a couple of museums in the palace ground. Most are worth the entrance ticket itself. The current one is where the display of the royal wardrobe are kept. They are mostly still in very good condition, with the usual intricate patterns and stitching. The other worthwhile museum is the one where the religious relics from Mecca is kept. There are relics of items that I would never have thought existed: Moses’ walking stick, Prophet Muhammad’s sword, beard, tooth and so on. I’ve not really listed down everything in there, not when google will tell you. While in there, a live quran reading session was going on. While recording it up, a security guard came over to check what I had with me. Obviously they have never seen a recording device so large with a twin big condenser microphone, but after checking it, I was cleared to record the ambient sound in the museum. I find the style of background music here interesting.

Cameras are not allowed in the wardrobe museum. I wonder how this shot came about...

Pavillion overlooking the Bosphorus

Cafe inside the palace grounds close to Mediciye Pavillion

Galata Tower from Topkapi Palace

The Terrace Kiosk

During Ramadan, TV crews set up live stage to broadcast live programs before breaking of fast. Being an engineer, the equipment fascinates me more than the set.

Inside courtyard of the palace

1628hrs: I have spent almost the whole day at the Palace so far. Since the day is still bright, I’ll do Sultan Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque) next. Good that I was there right at the time of a prayer session, and right before that, they had regular public sermon and Quran recital, mainly because of the current Ramadan season. This Mosque looks very impressive. No issue hanging around the inside of the mosque and resting. I like the idea of mosques where anyone can enter and take refuge from the hot weather outside. Ottoman mosque architectures have large main halls with minimal columns, so it is not only cool inside, but also airy. And this is the first time I heard of the architect Mimar Sinan. Little did I know, I’ll get to see a lot more of his work in the days and weeks to come.

Get ready for a barrage of pictures of the Blue Mosque aka Sultanahmet Mosque

Blue Mosque from Sultanahmet Square

Entrance to the mosque

Interior of the Blue Mosque. Is there a fish in here?

Prayer time about to start...

1715hrs: Ok, last stop for today, the Basillica Cistern. Summary: Septic Tank. Ok, a more accurate summary: underground water tank. A LARGE water tank. Stairs will bring you down underground to the cavern proper. The interior of the cistern is huge, but to keep the cozy atmosphere, they turn off the lights (I’m sure they have large floodlights for the maintenance crews) and have red accent lights on instead along with ambient music in the background. Its damp in here, and you can feel it. This is one of those times where I wish I had a Nikon D3. To shoot the interiors hand held, ISO3200 would be require, at least. Maybe more. The railings are not too stable to shoot a second or so in shutter speed. There are water in there, not too deep it seems, and wooden walking path leading (after a long walk) to a dry area where carved column of  2 Medusa’s head can be found.  Guide books will mention this for sure, since everyone knows to walk over here. Very nice cistern. I like.

But it is close to closing time when I’m done with this place. Time to look for dinner and recover for the next day.

Sun setting over Istanbul Day 1

Aya Sofia at dusk

During the month of Ramadan, there is always something to do, with all the night markets and entertainment all over old Istanbul

Centre of old Istanbul on a Ramadan night (Flares look nice here)

Corn on the cob. 1TL but tastes like overcooked corn.

Continue to Day 2…

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