Sabanci Merkez Mosque in Adana

I have been advised that there is nothing to see in Adana. I confess, the only reason I plan to stop by Adana is to catch a flight back to Istanbul, and to try out Adana Kebab at the source. Other cities may make the meanest Adana kebab, but I want to have it in Adana to strike another item off my to-do list. Adana also happens to have one of the most regular flights to Istanbul from this region. Being quite close to Antakya, I should be able to travel here and have enough of the day left to move around.

10 September 2009:
Spending most of this morning napping in the two and half hour bus from Antakya. It could have been faster if not for the bus stopping at every otogar along the way.

On the bus to Adana, with my small pack containing the usual accessories: GPS, audio recorder, blackberry, phone, etc

1338hrs: Been a long travelling day. Made the questionable decision to leave the otogar at Adana, go downtown and look for the hotel to drop my bag first before heading out for a day trip to nearby Tarsus.

Why Tarsus? Adana is a big city, in fact one of the biggest in this region. I don’t know if there’s a big attraction in Adana other than the big American air base at Incirlik. Tarsus is a historic town, at least historic enough for me to have heard of it, and sure as hell beats wandering around a city with more than a million inhabitants like Adana on a hot summer afternoon. The way from the Adana otogar to the city center is not too convenient. There is no free shuttle bus from my bus company, so I took a public transport instead, bus 117, and they happened to start a kilometer away from the place I wanted to stay. The noon sun was no making things too comfortable.

In Turkey, a statue of Ataturk seems to symbolize the center of the city and this is also where I found a small boutique hotel to drop my stuff. After a little asking around in simple english, catching bus 140 to the otogar, hoping to catch the Tarsus bus at the right time. While travelling, I try not to remain too idle waiting hours for a bus. However, taking a bus here is not that easy. The names on the front windscreen of the buses here are quite confusing. There seem to be just a couple of final destinations, from the looks of it. A surefire way to catch the right bus to the Otogar from the Centrum of Adana seems to be either bus 120 or 140. Strangely, public buses to the otogar seems to be always driven by women. The driver on the bus I took has heavy make-up and is quite presentable. Passengers are all staring at her when they get on the bus, so that means that this is an exception!

1409hrs: And we’re off in a minibus at the otogar bound for Tarsus. Strangely the driver’s attendant asked us to leave the van and walk 100m outside the otogar before we were supposed to leave and join the minibus outside. (ed: I would find out why later, I think they are trying to keep as much of the ticket fare for themselves!) And this guy drives faaast. 3.5TL for the fare. Bus is not full, myself, a lady and her daughter, and a mufti. And two backup drivers. This place is strange!

Downtown Tarsus

1454hrs: Drop off point in Tarsus is right next to Cleopatra’s gate. Confirmed by my GPS. This minibus goes all the way to Mersin if I got the message right. The return path is on the otherside of the Cleopatra’s gate, I presume as the bus returns from Mersin. Nothing cleopatra-y about this gate, just one of the gates forming the old city wall of Tarsus. The assumption is that since it is one of the major gates of old Tarsus, since Cleopatra came here (where she met Anthony), she must have passed through it. Part of it looks renovated but there is a little bit sticking out that still has some carving left. I’d say less than 10%.

Tarsus' Cleopatra Gate

1509hrs: At an excavated site next to the tourist information booth. The sign says old city, but what it is is a plot of land, with excavations 6m deep showing a section of an old Roman road. There are some base of buildings clearly shown besides the road, and on the slopes there are some columns peeking out of the dirt, quite obvious if you dig some more there will be more to be found. The tourist information booth marks the entrance and for once, it is free.

Excavated Roman Road

Cross section of the excavation border. Obviously quite a lot more of the road lies under modern Tarsus.

Right next to the old roas is St Paul’s well. I’m suspicious about it. Could have been anyone’s well. Even more suspicious if you consider that something more than 2000 years old has to be 6-8m or more below current ground level, and this one is right at ground level. Plus there are some building base left over, covered in glass top. Unless his house was the only one that happened to be found, I am a skeptic. And there is a gate charge of 3TL to go in. Was hesitant, rather spend the money on baklava at a local pastanesi, but maybe it is an order from heaven to eat less today. So I relented and donated 3TL to the Turkish tourism council. Here’s a tip for the scrooge in you, you don’t really need to pay the entrance fee to see the well, it is possible to see it from the gate, and going in just gives you the pleasure to peep into the glass covered floor, which is worth skipping.

St Paul's well, allegedly.

St Pauls Well: This is what I paid money to see?!?!?

There are a few other ruins around the town but they are all in bad shape. There’s the remains of a roman bath, but seriously only part of the wall is remaining. And there is a roman temple, but no one knew to which of the hundreds of Roman gods/goddesses it is dedicated too. I walked around town from one attraction to another in the hot sun.

I believe this is the ruins of a roman bath or something... couldn't possibly track them all.

Tarsus is a small town, big enough to have statues and a town hall, but has the feel of a small rural town. Stalls are selling red coloured Salgam all over the place. And lemonade. Apart for a roman highway about 20km out of Tarsus, the sights in the town can be covered in an hour or two, and then it is time to head back to Adana.

There is a small section of the town that reminds me of the houses in old Antakya, but not quite. The balconies are smaller and the road/alley is wider.

Backlane Tarsus

Tarsus has many old buildings with hanging balconies... just like Antakya.

Hanging balconies in colour

1616hrs: Done with this place, and on my way back to Adana, and hopefully grab a taste of the famous Adana kebab. Tarsus is possibly being my final adventure for this trip in Turkey as I will be heading back to Istanbul tomorrow morning.

Along the way back to Adana in the mini bus, we met with a police roadblock, and the bus attendant quickly whip out his receipt book and were busy scribbling some thing and gave it to everyone, then it occurs to me that they are supposed to issue receipts, possibly for tax reasons, and of the traffic police stops them, they will check that everyone has a receipt. So far, my 2 days of dolmus hopping, I have never received a receipt! Then it struck my mind that the guards manning the gates at the otogar probably either checks for receipt/tickets or charges a percentage commission, so on order to maximize profit, we were told to walk to the main road so that the dolmus could leave empty and circumvent whatever they rules or taxes were! Interesting. But the trip was cheap enough so I don’t complain and surely if there’s a way to keep costs low, I’d be all for it!

Adana's Otogar

Back to Adana, dinner was at a place close to the hotel as I’m not in the mood for more long walks. Again, started off with hummus and of course, adana kebab, how can I miss having it in Adana? The waiter brought 3 sets of side dish. First was the, now standard, fresh parsley and lemon wedges. Second, a plate of salad, as side so no topping. And third a plate of bread, pita style. First dish was an appetizer of pastries, one was the square pizza thingy I recognized from yesterday’s lunch with chilli flakes, and accompanied by pastry with melted goat cheese. Then not too long after, hummus came in a hot stone plate with cheese on top of it and ample olive oil. I finished it quickly as I didn’t have a proper lunch yet. Then the kebab came. Just a skewer of spiced and minced lamb, with some thin durum-like bread under and over it. That with grilled tomatoes and green chillis. Forgot another side dish, sliced shallots with chilli flakes and shredded parsley to go with the kebab. And finished it with a complimentary house cake oozing with honey. Drank a cup of cay at the end and ayran during the meal. If it sounded a portion and a half, that’s because it is. I’m typing this a few hours later and I’m still full from dinner! Again, will fast tomorrow!

Dinner: Hot plate hummus

Dinner: Adana Kebab

11 September 2009:
My last day in Adana and set the alarm to go off early. Was still dark so I went back to sleep till 7 am. Then it was time to pack the Leica M6 and take a walk to the roman stone bridge 1km away from here and see what the morning life is like. There are only mini buses or dolmus on the street, and some pedestrians. The area I live is close to fabric merchants and some shops are already open this early, but they make up less than 10% of all shops. The sunlight comes at an oblique angle, so on the way to the bridge eastwards, it was possible to shoot silhouetted shots and coming back properly exposed pictures, except for a little long shadows here and there.

Early Morning in Adana

On the way to Taskopru bridge

On the bridge with the Sabanci Mosque in the background...

I liked this view so much, I took quite a number of shots here...

Taskopru

Bicycles are common on the bridge...

Buses in downtown Adana

Town bus

Had a productive shooting session and managed to mmake it back for a turkish breakfast. After an hour packing and checking emails, time to go to the airport. Adana airport is small, 2 small buildings, one domestic and the other international. There is only 1 hall, both for checking and waiting. It’s one of those airports where the planes park just outside the waiting lounge and the idea is you walk up to the plane. Like a big house.

I didn’t spend too much time in Adana city center. Didn’t see anything worth looking at. So this is only a food trip, mainly. There are other towns near Adana with a lot more history or popularity. As usual, I don’t like big cities too much.

On the way to the airport...

What a way to end this post, if you're wondering what the Sabanci Mosque look like in glorious colour, here it is...

Continue to the last post…

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Morning in Istanbul...

Olives in Iznik

Iznik (Nicaea) is another one of those town that I HAVE to pass through in Turkey. It is here, 1700 years ago that the first ecumenical council took place that produced a Nicene creed, for non Catholic, I summarize by saying this is where a group of men decided what the relationship between all the main characters in the religion is. Of course they say its by divine order but lets just leave that there. Iznik is also known for its ceramic industry during the Ottoman empire days. Just about everywhere I went so far, the most elaborate mosques or palace is adorned with tiles from Iznik. If I get just 1 type of souvenir, it has to be ceramic tiles from Iznik.

Boating on Iznik Lake

0800hrs: After taking the early morning train from Cankaturan this morning, I am now on board the massive car ferry at Yenikapi docks that crosses the Marmara sea. Seats are assigned, so this is not a intra city ferry styled boat. Even outdoor seats are numbered. Too bad I got assigned the indoor seats.

IDO Ferry Terminal at Yenikapi

Boarding the ferry

0915hrs: Arrival in Yalova. The ferry took a little more than an hour only. Not too bad. The plan today, hatched during the boat ride is quite hectic. It involves a trip to bursa for the Iskander Kebab lunch, then a bus to Iznik for 3 hours there before going back to Yalova for the IDO ferry back to Istanbul Yenikapi. It might change of course.

Just after getting off the ferry at Yalova, there are large buses waiting and the familiar ‘Bursa’ being shouted indicated to me this has to be the quickest way to my Iskander Kebab lunch. I hop on without question, after taking GPS coordinate of the docks of course and hoping to plot the drive to the big city. The trip on the bus costs only 9TL, and this is not a shabby dolmus or servis bus, mind you. Even comes with a cup of mineral water served by a steward in office clothes.

Yalova: Man and son negotiating a bus ride?

Yalova: Local taxis waiting for passengers at Ferry terminal

Yalova is not too far from Istanbul, guessing around 40km straight line. In fact, on a slightly foggy day like today, it is possible to see Istanbul in the horizon at the Yalova waterfront. I’m quite sure it is a layer of smog, been living in Shanghai long enough to tell the difference between smog and fog. The bus goes right through the town of Yalova, nothing special to report. Just like any other small town so far.

1035hrs: Just arrived at Bursa Otogar. No idea where it is, but for sure outside the city. And, like in Istanbul, there is an Ikea just next to the otogar. Bus 38 goes to the city center and you have to buy a paper credit-card sized ticket at the counter for 2TL flat rate. The guy at the counter says 38 goes to Ataturk Caddesi. Closer to lunch!

Downtown Bursa

Inside Bursa's public bus

My guess is there is a big football match coming up...

1120hrs: Not all the restaurants here are open due to Ramadan season, but the Iskander kebab place is, thank goodness. Ordered a portion at 16TL and a bottle of water. This place has an oldish look to it, but looks renovated too. Definitely not older than 20 years though it is said the shop existed long before that. Doesn’t matter, it’s the food that matters. There are only 3 tourists here due to the fasting season.

The Iskander Kebab is soso. Ok it’s nice, but not the most heavenly dish on the face of the earth. The shop that claims to be the first only serves one dish, not even salad. What it is is lamb slices on top of diced pitta bread and topped with secret sauce. alright, nothing secret about it, it’s a whole cup of melted butter. 2 slices of tomatoes, 2 grilled chillis and a large scoop of yoghurt complete the dish. As it sounded, this is one dish thay will strike out a few years off your lifespan if you are going to die of heart attack. Once in a lifetime dish, literally.

Bursa's famous Iskander Kebab. I think it just cut short my lifespan by a few years. It is topped with melted butter. And notice the slab of yoghurt to the right. The tomato is to make it look healthy-ish, and it is anything but!

Inside the shop that claims to have invented the Iskander Kebab, it is, of course, Ramadan week so it is understandably quiet.

1217hrs: Right after lunch, back into bus 38 on the downslope and 2TL BuCART and 30 minutes later, I’m back at the Bursa otogar inside a minibus bound for Iznik, the second stop of the day. Paid 7.5TL for the trip that starts moving when the bus is full. It seats 15 so I do not have to wait too long. The sun is out in full force again today and I will skip mosques as I am wearing a pair of  bermuda shorts and quick dry coolmax shirt. Time to take GPS plots and go get a nap. Along the way, I was able to see the route the bus is taking. It goes past Orhangazi and then swings along the south coast of the Iznik Lake. This is a large area growing olives. In fact, I think I’ve never seen an olive tree before and this place is just full of it. I’m quite sure I will be able to find a lot of olive based food here, hopefully not just for breakfast.

Yup, this is the bus to Iznik all right...

Road sign and olive trees along Iznik Lake

In the small bus to Iznik... Ah yes, they do drive fast here.

1351hrs: Wandering the streets of Iznik after getting dropped off at the otogar. This place is more rural than I expected. There are almost no tourists here at least on the same bus. I’m sure there will be some biblical tourists if I look hard enough in the town center. I boot up my google maps on the phone and observed that there are a few points of interest in the town. However, quick impression tells me that this place is a major farming town. Has to do with the olive tress that I saw along the way. First stop is an ancient byzantine Church but it has turned into a rubbish dump and nothing more to look at other than some bricks still left. Nothing much to see here. Had a short chat to a guy walking around taking electricity meter readings with a terminal linked by GSM signal to a central station. All he has to do is to punch in the reading and it updates a central database. Not too backward!

Iznik's small Otogar

Farm machineries are all over town

... Including this fine Ferrari specimen

Even in colour, this place looks rural

Plough left on the roadside

... Deconstruction in progress

Back tracking towards the Iznik lake, there is a Roman Amphitheatre. Seems to be fenced off but no problem getting into the ruins. The only thing that suggests a theatre is the shape of the mess that’s left.

Ah yes, this is where I am going next...

I believe this is a warning sign... not too sure though, beyond it is the amphitheatre

Iznik's roman amphitheatre

1506hrs: Continuing down the street towards the west and into the sun, I quickly pass the ancient city walls. It is crumbling but parts of it along with the many fortified low towers are still visible. Not high enough to take a nice photo of it and reasonably overgrown with plants. It runs right through a residential area, so it is difficult to know where you are going as there are many small lanes.

Trucks with Masa'allah writing on it. Ah yes, that truck is a divine gift.

Just as I was reaching the lakeside, passed by a workshop run by the Iznik Foundation. They do sell tiles made in the same way as ancient times, so how can I resist? Picked up one from the Ottoman era and another from earlier Seljuk design, got the lady there to write down where the design was copied from. The workshop is quite easy to spot, there are clay and ceramic working materials outside and the showroom is not too big but the sign board does indicated what it is. They take credit card but hey, if the difference is more than 30% between credit card and cash due to VAT and whatever, then I’ll pay cash. Didn’t expect a slab of standard sized tile to cost 200TL! Thought it was outrageously priced but since I’m here and no intention to buy the stereotypical turkish carpet, why not.

Iznik's ancient city wall portal

Rear workshop of the Iznik Foundation

Old Car

1536hrs: At a Downtown pastanesi having 4 Baklavas. This thing is just sinful in a dessert way. It looks as though it is a few layers of pastry only but I’m sure the bottom half of the thumb sized thing is pure sugar. Next time 2 will be enough.

Iznik's Aya Sofia.

Town center

Street life in downtown Iznik

I think my trip to Iznik is almost over. Walked down the main street eastwards and passed an Aya Sofia museum that cost 3TL for entrance but this one looks like a guardhouse to the other Sofia in Istanbul. No comparison. It might have been even a ticketing booth to the mother of Aya Sofias.

Iznik looks to be an agricultural town. People here drive tractors pulling carts. There are many shops selling agricutal miracle chemicals or fertilizers. Most restaurants are closed during the fasting month, which is right now. No chance for me to try out the fish kebap here. Fish from Iznik lake. Kids on the street, shall I say brats, have probably seen a foreigner before so they follow me around. But even the, can’t stand the hot sun it seems.

An excavated ancient kiln where they made the original Iznik tiles

Kiln

1620hrs: Back at Iznik’s otogar, the small square serviced by small minibuses. Most buses are bound for Bursa, the big city near by. One seem to go to Orhangazi, wherever that is, but wait, that sounds like the town that is just on the western edge of Iznik Lake directly opposite of where Iznik is. I will go to Yalova to take the late evening ferry back to Yenikapi pier in Istanbul. The bus leaves at 5pm, I reckon it leaves intentionally at this time to match up with the 1830hrs IDO fast ferry to Istanbul. Has to be – so I am set without too much worry about aligning the timing for bus and ferry. Fare for the bus trip is 7.50TL and should take an hour according to my GPS map. Unfortunately there is not too much legroom in the minibus, and regretting not wearing my 5.11 tactical cargo pants with padded knee area as I’m wedged right up against the front of my seat. It has been a hot day today, so another nap is in order.

Waiting for a bus to Yalova

Bus drivers schedule

1808hrs: Like clockwork, I’m at the Yalova pier. Now I know where Orhangazi is. That is the town on the west bank of Iznik lake where the road branches off to Bursa and Iznik. Thanks to the GPS plots. There are two ticketing booths for IDO, the one outside looks like an advanced booking booth, they wouldn’t sell me tickets. Had to go into the terminal to buy my 13TL trip to Yenikapi docks back to Istanbul.

Been a good day. Got to do some walking but a lot less than Edirne. I wasn’t too interested in Bursa but got there just for lunch. Iznik is historically and theologically important town but it is nothing like its former self. An agricultural town today, it looks like they are trying to revive the tiles and porcelain skills that this town used to known for. Tiles from major historical buildings that I have seen so far in Edirne and Istanbul are adorned with tiles from Iznik. But no sign of where the Council met to debate out the Nicene Creed. My guess would be at a location within the city walls that doesn’t exist anymore. Doubt it was at Iznik’s Aya Sofia. I could image that the proclamation, the winners and losers would go to the theater and celebrate or sulk away and reflect at the banks of the lake. It’s entirely possible of course. Wasn’t documented in the books that I have read so far.

And I’ve made the only shopping of my trip so far, and possibly ever. Two tiles from Iznik. Not cheap, but at least they don’t cut corners and do follow the design and fabrication process from the era they are supposed to represent. I skip through the tiles with slightly more modern designs. Find that the older styles with plants a lot more appealing than geometrical shaped islamic designs. The high silica content used in the making of the tiles make them heavier than most other tiles that are found in standard shops.

Boarding IDO ferry at Yalova

This is a culinary and historical trip. Summarizing this on the way back to Istanbul. It requires certain amount of imagination when you do a trip like this when there is no perfectly preserved structures to send the obvious into the mind. A run-of-the-mill tourist would have gotten bored here in Bursa and Iznik. I’m happy to be able to come here. Irritating kids aside, everyone here has been very welcoming. They wave back when waved at. And I have my Iznik ceramic to remind me of this place. Not entirely picturesque place, so I have not shot too many pictures, mostly with the point and shoot, possibly half a roll of Tri-X and 2 DSLR frames.

Tomorrow, a flight to Nevsehir. Time to get out of the city and out into the desert.

Back in Yenikapi, Istanbul...

Continue to Cappadocia…

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