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Turkey: Istanbul Day 3

Brian — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:20:00 +0000

Sun setting over the Galata Tower

Hanging chandelier at ground floor of Aya Sofia

1 September 2009:
Today is a mixture of sightseeing and chores. One of the plan of this trip was to switch hotels in Istanbul. The idea is not to experience all the hotels in the vicinity of Sultanahmet, but rather, to move around to get a different vantage point of all the landmarks of the city. It is possible, within some tolerance, to determine if a hotel terrace has a good view in Google Earth. Sometimes it works, sometimes there is a building in the way. So it only makes sense that I stay in 3-4 hotels during this trip. The next two days I will be taking day trips out of Istanbul, so it is only making sense that I move to a hotel that allows me to move around to the otogar or the ferry pier easily early in the morning.

0852hrs: Paid 170TL for the hotel and on my way to Aya Sofia for this morning’s trip. It is starting to rain so it is no fun. It did rain overnight, wet roads and all visible this morning. My window was opened all night long and I was lucky not to drench out the whole room. Woke up early in the morning by the morning Fajr prayer calls from countless mosques in the area. In my state of early morning concussion, I was still able to find my audio recorder in the darkness and recorder the prayer wars between mosques. I wouldn’t politically call it ‘fighting’ but it does seem like there is a small element of rivalry there. But overall the plan for this trip to Istanbul has turned out well, walked the city when the weather was fine in the last few days and just as the weather turned bad, I’ve only got the interiors of Aya Sofia left to go through today. Plus some time wasting walkabouts this afternoon.

0901hrs: Queue for Aya Sofia is already relatively long despite the rain, and mainly made up of private tour groups with special tickets ready. On the way in the entrance is strewn (not exactly true, there are some elements of orderly arrangement) with pieces of the old building that was supposed to be here before the current one was build. I spent a little more time than the tour groups checking all the pieces out , architecturally it seems rather roman, carved marble slabs, columns and arches are all over the place. But if the previous temple was all stone, I wonder how it got burnt down.

Aya Sofia Garden: Garden of pillars

Aya Sofia Garden: Greek writing on some of the remains

Aya Sofia Garden: Possible style of the old structure that used to stand here

Aya Sofia Garden: How do they know? I wonder....

Aya Sofia Garden: It is strange for me to see all these historical leftovers as garden ornaments. Better than having it plundered, possibly.

Ah, at least I know I'm visiting the right building!

I don’t think I have to mention everything that is inside Aya Sofia, every book out there describes it in much more detail than I could in a single post. One thing is for sure, this is one big, elaborate and impressive building. The marbles look as though they have been chosen for their pattern, and they are arranged so that the patterns repeat somewhat, done by cutting it into two and putting the two newly exposed surfaces next to each other, so they look like mirror reflections. Very nicely done if I may. First time I’ve seen it arranged like this.

Some of the arches and column dont look very even, appparently due to a rush job while fitting out the building. Columns are not mathematically straight either. But it’s good timing as I happen to watch a Discovery Channel documentary on the building the night I was supposed to leave for Istanbul!

Grand as it is, Aya Sofia is also under renovation, with 13 storey scaffolding right under the main dome obscuring the size of the place. I’d say that the Ottomans were lucky that the church was built in an orientation that approximates the direction of Mecca, so that the devotees only have to skew it a few positive degrees, not more. Or else the interiors would have been a mess.

Aya Sofia: Inside the Main Entrance

Aya Sofia: Muslim Calligraphy adorn the gallery

Aya Sofia: No part of the building is not decorated

Aya Sofia: Who sent the fish in here?

Aya Sofia: This is the first batch of tourists at around 9am! The pattern on the floor is the actual marble patterns, not moire patterns off my camera...

Aya Sofia: Guessing this gold thingy points torwards Mecca. notice how it is offset just a little bit from the direction the original church was made to face.

Aya Sofia: Urn from Pergamon. I've made many shots of this area, and somehow this shot with Kodak Tri-X looks better than any colour alternative.

Aya Sofia: Omphalion, where emperors are... ah well, read the damn signpost!

Aya Sofia: Staircase to the second floor gallery

Aya Sofia: Proof that the ancients are also into graffiti...

Aya Sofia: View from the gallery on the second floor. All recent photos of the interior of this place always features the scaffolding - feels like it is a permanent part of the building now.

Aya Sofia: I love all these Islamic art motifs.

Aya Sofia: Base of the Mimbar, from which the Imams would preach (on top of this, of course)

Aya Sofia: On an outcast day black and white shows this mosaic in its best light... On the second floor gallery.

Aya Sofia: I love the old chandeliers. One last one to bring us out...

1116hrs: Out of Aya Sofia. Spent a reasonably good amount of time looking closely at just about everything while trying to avoid the rude tour groups trying to do a rush job of visiting the venue and steam rolling everyone down. It is still drizzling but I will have to switch hotel at noon.

1315hrs: At the train track going to Sirkeci, hoping to scout the vicinity of Galata bridge and see if there is a late cruise trip. If it is not available, then it will be walking Beyoglu for the afternoon. We’ll see how things goes, no real plan except to roam the areas of the Halic for the rest of the day.

1340hrs: At Enimonu docks looking at Beyoglu and the Bosphorus ferries. This is a busy place. Once the ferry leaves another one arrives to take its place. Not all are full to the brim like sardine cans, but still busy nonetheless. Each pier is its own little terminal. Tickets is by the usual Jeton token. 1 token will get you across the Bosphorus. But I will not go yet at this moment. Continued walking towards the Galata bridge, having a 4TL fish sandwish along the way. The sandwich is tasty good stuff but I think I got part of the gills of the mackerel fillet along with all the bones that are clearly not for consumption. As Turkey is not a clean place, I guess it is possible to just throw away fish bones anywhere on the street.

TCCD Train at Sirkeci Station

One of the ferry landing points at Eminonu

Another view of Galata with the Tower in the background

It may look standard, but bread, mackerel, onions, lettuce make for very very good lunch...

This is one of the Bosphorus ferry that goes to the Asian shores

More fishing

Galata Bridge

Yup, and more fishing...

Galata Bridge: what can I say. Was expecting something like the Tower bridge in London or one of the elaborate bridges across the Seine, at least Bir Hakeim, but no, this is as boring as it gets. Causeway style most of the way with restaurants lodged between the water and road deck and a little bridge in the middle for low river boats to pass. Above on the road deck, anglers line the bridge with their wooden contraption to keep the rods held and locked to the railing.

View of Galata from Eminonu

Walked across to Beyoglu end of Galata Bridge, and time for a little snack. Fish soup, bread and some more of the Turkish Tea should complete my tea time meal. There is an area selling hardware and tools and that is where I find this small shop selling soup.

Market for Hardware Tools in Beyoglu

Areas for quiet reflection are all over Istanbul, if you look hard enough...

Fish soup restaurant

Best break ever: Fish soup, bread and a cup of Turkish tea

1612hrs: Managed to find my way up to Galata tower by the furnicular tram and then short 100m walk downhill. The walk passes through small cobblestoned streets with many music shops. Now sitting by the tower while my Garmin is having much difficulty locking onto satellite signals. No photo opportunities here as the light is coming from the wrong angles. Time to go back down to the waterfront and walk across Ataturk Bridge back to Eminonu to catch a ferry to Asia.

To Galata Tower

Furnicular Tram up the hill...

Blah... too close!

On the way down from Galata Tower to the waterfront

1804hrs: After a long walk back, now at Eminonu-Karakoy pier. Wanted to go to Uskudar but got on the wrong ferry instead, but not an issue, there is a nice view of mosques at Sultanahmet here. The ferry stops at Haydarpasa, where there is a train station before hitting Kadikoy. However, here in Kadikoy I realised the line of sight to the sun setting is not too ideal for a sunset photo. Not too much time left, and I will have to quickly look for a bus to Uskudar. The timetable at the pier seems to suggest that ferries run till close to midnight so I should be safe as far as the idea of getting stuck in Asia is concerned. Good that I managed to get an Akbil stored value key fob today. Allows me to travel without the need to dish out coins or look for a token booth.

On Ataturk Bridge

Suleymaniye Mosque from Ataturk Bridge

Skyline of minarets is what makes Istanbul unique...

More street scenes

Ferry to Karakoy

Haydarpasa Train Station on the Asian shore

Finally: Karakoy ferry station in Asia

The bus slowly meanders its way all the way to Uskudar next to the ferry docks. After checking the pier timetable to be sure there is a boat back after my photoshoot, its time to fast walk the coastline all the way towards Harem till I find the best spot for the shoot. Did what a lazy photographer would do, sitting down on a bench while shooting. For this session, a tripod will be required, which I deployed while homeless kids asking for money, thinking all asian looking people are rich Japanese. They don’t understand English, so its time to practice my insults on them. Didn’t work so I tried the cock-stare, as Singaporeans call it. That worked.

Sun set view over Suleymaniye Mosque from Uskudar

Who says you can't do sunset with black and white film?

The sun sets behind Galata tower, was hoping for it to go behind the tower but it seems to miss it by just a bit. Suleymaniye Camii is on the left, not as nice as the Galata tower as it is too far from the setting sun, but still a good shoot. Met a local photographer during the shoot. We talked photography while waiting between sun setting and the dusk glow setting in.

Entrance to ferry station at Uskudar

Boat rides don't get more exciting than crossing the Bosphorus from Asia back to Europe at night...

2054hrs: On board the SH Fatih on the way back to Golden Horn and eventually back to the hotel. Been a long day today, pretty eventful, no mosques, but more of a landscaping day. Sitting on the deck on the right side to have a nice view of European side of Istanbul. The boat is not too full on the way back. Very tired by now, and tomorrow a day trip to Edirne.

One final picture to take us out: Sun set on Day 3...

Continue to Edirne…

*end*

Turkey: Istanbul Day 2

Brian — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:10:06 +0000

Morning on Day 2

31 August 2009:

0850hrs: Early morning today. Out of the hotel and out to take the tram. Line T1 passes right outside the hotel in Sultanahmet, 3 minutes walking at the most. Was hoping to pick up the Akbil stored value key fob thingy but the ticket office was closed. And the only place selling the tokens required was a corner coffee shop. The sun is out in full force, and when the tram arrived, it was hot as a sauna inside. Evidently the airconditioning stopped working today. Or this is as typical as airconditioning in europe, which is most of the time, not working as well as it should. Which is very unfortunate as I’ve never boarded a tram and drip wet in sweat while inside. Anyway, destination is Yusufpasa and then transfering to Metro line M1 at Aksaray and going to the Istanbul Otogar.

Early Morning in Sultanahmet

The interchange at tram stop Yusufpasa requires leaving the station and passing an old mosque, Murat Pasa Camii (1493AD) with old islamic tombstones that look big enough to be middle age european tomb stones. Anyway, 100m is all it takes to walk over to the Aksaray metro station. Another token is required.

Plain shoplots close to Yusufpasa Tram stop

Murat Pasa Mosque

Aksaray Metro Station

Istanbul Metro

Metro M1 is not that bad. Was expecting filthy and oily smelling european equivalent. Its somewhere between that and a modern asian metro train. I’d say it is half dodgy. Coloured bright orange, just to state its utilitarian existence. Either that or it is made so that people can tell they’re in a Metro and not just some tiled up boring government building. Good news is that a tram token (jeton) also works here at the turnstiles. They look the same anyway, which leads me to the simplified conclusion that the tram and metro has the same owner/operator. Kuala Lumpur: learn from this!

0950hrs: At the Otogar. The metro drops you off in the inside center of a circle of I-have-no-idea-how-many bus companies. Without counting, I’d say at least a hundred of them. Some flashy and posh, others bare and budget. The system here is good. Walk to the front of the shop, buy tickets, then go out the back and board the bus. I started asking around a few and was recommended to go to Metro or Ulusoy company for Edirne. So it seems not all companies go everywhere. Ulusoy looks like a big one, hence it shall be my carrier of choice. Ticket to Edirne cost me 20TL leaving on Wednesday 2 September and returning the same day. I can’t decide on the return time, so will buy it when I get there. Was assured by the people at the Ulusoy counter that they usually have some space left (apparently Turks don’t buy things way in advance).

Istanbul Otogar Metro Station

And one small portion of the Otogar front shop lot

And under it, a jumble of buses refueling and being cleaned up...

1006hrs: On my way to Topkapi-Ulubatli M1 Metro stop, right at the old city walls. This is the inner wall, on the map there are two layers of protective walls. The Topkapi section seems familiar, would even go on to speculate that’s where the last Byzantine emperor got killed when Mehmet II broke through the walls, but need big time citation for that. And somehow I’m thinking that it could be on the outer wall where this took place 700 years ago. Planning to walk down south to the Cannon part of the wall, where the tram station is. This is probably where the Ottomans got through by pounding it with a giant cannon made by the eastern european mercenaries. History galore!

Reaching the inner wall...

Wall 1

Wall 2

Wall 13: By now it should be quite clear that there has been some significant renovation on the wall that went on...

Some parts of the wall is used as store rooms, and grills such as this one is installed to keep things safe.

1026hrs: Standing outside the city walls at Topkapi-Ulubalti. Light isn’t too good so the DSLR stays in the bag. The wall here looks like it is two layer thick, the outer wall, could be pole vaulted by an olympian for sure but the second requires superman. The wall meanders up and down following the contour of the hills, still very imposing in this time and age. Amazing. Some parts are crumbling and others are renovated, but one of my favourite city walls so far. Love it. I’ve read about the invasion of the Ottomans and how they broke through the wall and now I’m here looking at it.

1116hrs: Walked on to the tram line and took it back towards Sultanahmet. Missed the Aksaray tram stop and got off at Laleli Universite, the next stop. Good too as I stumbled upon the Laleli Mosque, a small but still interesting looking mosque. Its a working mosque so I try not to enter this one even though I came prepared with trousers.

Laleli Mosque

Laleli Mosque: Main door

Laleli Mosque: A Quiet Corner

Laleli Mosque: A typical Ottoman has a main square where a central fountain is located for devotees to wash their feet, face and hands and surrounded by corridors such as this...

Laleli Mosque: Some central washing area are elaborate, this one is average, but interesting in its own way...

Laleli Mosque: Entrance to the main hall, the plastic container holds plastic bags to hold shoes. Mosques. No shoes... remember?

Lunch will be early today. Its noon and I think I need to refuel. Simple lunch of kofte meatballs in sandwich garnished with bell peppers and strangely they stuff fries into the sandwich too. Not too filling, giving some room for another meal around teatime later on.

A little walk later and I’m at the grand arches of Emperor Valens’ Aqueduct. Didn’t expect to hit this thingy. And from here, one can see another part of Istanbul behind the aqueduct. I tried a few lenses to see which one works. Right after I fell for the oldest trick in a conman’s book, targeting a traveller’s compassion. A shoeshine guy comes, drops his brush and when you pick it up he offers a free scrub, when you accept it, he goes on talking about sick baby etc and asks for donation. When I took out my wallet he sees a wad of cash and dips his hands into it. Quick reflexes pulls it back, realises all these story is a whole load of crock, if he was desperate, rudeness is a reason to get nothing. One lesson. Never speak to anyone on the streets of Istanbul. Bastards. Would have beaten up the guy next time he comes up to me. Asshole.

Emperor Valen's Aqueduct

Valens Aqueduct: Up close

... The condition of this monument is amazing...

Still a long way to walk today. I have barely begun. Took time off having turkish tea cay at Sehzade Mehmed Sofrasi in Sehzadebasi Camii, a nice restaurant in the courtyard of an mosque. Probably old but not too sure. Tried to order figs for dessert but since it is Ramadan, they only have some pudding for dessert. No pudding. But since this is Ramadan, the manager didn’t want to accept payment for the tea. Can’t do much more than to thank him profusely. Restoring my faith in humanity for a while.

Sehzade Mehmed Sofrasi: Time for a little break...

1330hrs: Spent some time hanging around Sehzade Mehmet Mosque (1543AD), a nice looking mosque built by Mimar Sinan, my second one on this trip. It takes up quite a large tract of real estate to the west of the Bazaar area of Istanbul.

Sehzade Mosque

Sehzade Mosque: Up close

Sehzade Mosque: Ottoman era mosques seem to all have this stalactite style entrances. They look appropriately right where they should be.

Sehzade Mosque: Central fountain

Sehzade Mosque: Surrounded by tomb stones of notable people of the past

After a little stroll throught the backlanes, got to Suleymaniye Camii (1557AD), another domed mosque Ottoman-style. But not before getting stopped by people hoping to appear in my photos. This mosque has more tourists that the usual mosque which suggests it is popular among the Lonely Planet carrying tourists. I walked around the courtyard looking for a good vantage point to take a snap or two.

Backlane along Suleymaniye Street

Two old residents sit in the shade sipping tea with Suleymaniye Mosque in the background

Local kids love to have their pictures taken by aliens (read: people who look like Japanese)

Right behind the mosque is the tomb of Sultan Suleyman, bigger than most tombs of course, and apparently a super Sultan during the heyday of the Ottoman era. I’ll have to read up on this after the trip. Two other sultans are buried under a rotunda with a constant dose of burnt incense filling the air. The Sultan’s wife and daughter are buried in there as well, but smaller grave. Other than taking off your shoes, no other formalities when the room. There are old women praying inside the room as well.

Suleymaniye Mosque

Suleymaniye Mosque: Auxiliary building that houses the graves of Sultan Suleymaniye, among others...

Suleymaniye Mosque: Entrance to main hall

Suleymaniye Mosque: Any time is prayer time

The inside of the mosque is mainly under renovation and only a small right wing of the mosque was open for prayers and visiting, so it is difficult to know what the popularity of this is all about. After finishing my roll of tri-x I visited the second floor balcony, which by the way, looked like an exceptionally peaceful place to hang around with women reading the quran. Took a couple of shots underexposed by a stop to give it the look I want. Too bad the rest of this mosque is not opened at this moment. Did I mention this mosque is another of Mimar Sinan’s design?

Suleymaniye Mosque: Stairs up to second floor terrace

Suleymaniye Mosque: Peaceful Quran reading area on the second floor

Tome of Mimar Sinan the Architect, just across the road from Suleymaniye Mosque, which books claim is his favourite work.

One of the metal ware shops around the perimeter of Istanbul University

Just about anywhere in Istanbul, you get people sitting on the sidewalks just chatting away. Somewhere in the picture they should have a small cup of tea.

Which way to go? Shopping? Or bath?

1541hrs: Now at Beyazit Camii after going around the perimeter of Istanbul university. Its located on a largish square overlooking the main entrance of Istanbul University. By now all the Ottoman era mosques start to look the same. Spent a few minutes inside. There should be three more hours of sunshine today and with a freshly loaded M6 with ERA100, it’s time to take a walk down the main Divan Yolu Caddesi back to Sultanahmet.

Istanbul University

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque, right next to the university and Grand Bazaar

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque: Interiors

Sultan Beyazit 2 Mosque: What a bird sees when inside

1601hrs: Grand Bazaar… This the type of place I want to avoid. Big and popular and really nothing I really want to buy. The kind of place where tourists make nice prey. It was not as tight and shady as I thought it was, what a waste as I had another roll of Tri-X ready to shoot some grainy B&W but it doesn’t look as great as I expected. Took some pictures with the ERA100 and recorded a sound clip or two, and very quickly I was out of the Grand Bazaar and walking the road back.

Grand Bazaar entrance: Don't be mistaken, there are infinite number of entrances to this market...

Istanbul Grand Bazaar

1617hrs: Atik Ali Pasa Mosque (1496AD) is another mosque on the circuit but I will not take off my shoes for this one. I have seen a mosque too many now for today. Time to continue down Divan Yolu. Along the way, you get to pass graves of notable people, and the interesting bit for me is a monument called the Cemberlitas, erected when Constantinople was the capital of the Roman empire around 300AD. All I got to see is a noticeboard saying it is so and a large scafolding covering the whole column. Looking right at the Camberlitas is a juice shop so its time for me to load up some vitamins. Went for promegranate plus orange, which is sour-ish and acid-y as hell. Paid 5TL for that combo which is made with juice only and nothing added to it. Great!

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: Quiet mosque just outside of the Grand Bazaar, great for people shots like this one...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: My favourite portrait of the trip. A worker taking a break and day dreaming...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: Mosques are a good place to take a rest from a hot day, especially during the month of Ramadan...

Atik Ali Pasa Mosque: But also attracts beggars and street sellers... Harmless though.

The Camberlitas, under restoration

A little while more down the road is another cemetery with a building containing the grave of some old Ottoman Sultan. Nah, enough of those as well.

1706hrs: Now this is a revelation. Next to the well known Basilica Cistern, is Binbirdirek Cistern, notably smaller by a bit, but is mostly dry and, when I was there, contains an art gallery and a restaurant. 10TL is the entrance fee and includes a cup of coffee or tea at the cafe inside. Background music is present here and the lighting is slightly brighter than the Basilica Cistern and none of those red accent lights – it is possible to see in better detail the whole cistern. I skip the free drinks and it is time for a quick dinner.

Birbindirek Cistern Interior

Birbindirek Cistern: Cafe inside the cistern

1721hrs: Figured that since one of the shop last night had very long queue for its Kofte, it is time for me to eat there. Shop is called Tarihi Sultanahmet Koftecisi. Inside looked like time was stuck at the 1930s, waiters with aprons, and smart clothing. I ordered Ayran (some yoghurt drink similar to the indian lassi), a portion of Kofte which comes with preserved green chilli, and a pilaf of rice. Best damn kofte I have ever tried (though my lifetime tally is just 2).

Kofte shop

Dinner: Ayran, Kofte, rice, Salad

1830hrs: Had some time left today, so took the train hugging the coast to Yenikapi Docks to get tickets for Thursday’s trip. The trains are old and it looks like only thugs and gangsters take this train. It’s possible to force the door open so you get all these thugs sticking half their body outside the train door. But it also helps them to get off the train a few seconds earlier by jumping off it before the train stops.

At Yenikapi, bought a boat ticket for going to Yalova on the third of September. There seems to be boat trips all the way to Bursa, which I might use on the return trip. 13TL for the ticket, not too bad.

Cankutaran train station

TCCD Trains in Istanbul, nothing to shout about. Barely presentable...

Yenikapi pier vehicle entrance

Buying tickets for ferries are not that difficult at Yenikapi. I had to go through xray and other security apparatuses though, something I’m not too keen on going through all the time with all the film in my hand carry bag. But there is no choice.

Few minutes later, I’m back on the TCCD hoping to get to the waterfront overlooking Anatolia to see the evening glow before the sun sets.

1941hrs: Watching the sun setting on the European side of the Bosphorus. There are hills on this side, so around 1915hrs the Anatolian side will bask in orange glow and suddenly it becomes normal again when the sun dips below the hills. At this moment, it is still bright but that is all, no more spectacular colours. Took a picture of the houses on the other side before sitting down to type this in while the feeling of staring at the Bosphorus outside the old Constantinople city wall is still fresh. Did a 10 min recording of ambient sound while waiting for the skies to turn dark as darkness sets in. The ferry boats chugs along and once in a while, an oil tanker from the Black Sea comes along.

Plenty of anglers along Kennedy Avenue

Proof that Turks are good business men. Where there are anglers, there are peddlers...

Sea of Marmara

Bosphorus Bridge in the distance

One more angler...

Sunset over Istanbul on Day 2

Blue Mosque at night

Bosphorus Bridge at night

And during this Ramadan month, Sultanahmet Square comes alive with plenty of food stall, band performances, traditional dances and the whole place is just packed with people the whole month. They break fast on the grass in the park, mostly large families eating together. Tourists get to see all these show of culture in one small location.

Theodosius' Obelisk at Sultanahmet Square

Continue to Day 3…

*end*

Turkey: Istanbul Day 1

Brian — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 15:00:45 +0000

Turkish Flag at Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

The Bosphorus and Anatolia from Topkapi Palace

30 August 2009:
Had running nose a few days before the trip and on the verge of getting fever. Not such a good idea in this day and age. However, I was recommended a a lifesaver tablet – Actifed to handle the runny nose, with a pleasant side effect where it knocks you out cold. Took it 30mins before the flight and I was sleeping all the way. Had to wake up in Dubai, thanks to the landing, but was asleep again once we took off.

0805hrs: Arrived at Istanbul IST, early in the morning. As I was able to sleep all the way, even with the time difference, I was all full of energy and can’t wait to start the day. I’ve got a small little backpack in the cargo hold, so waiting at the conveyor belt number 3 for my lone backpack to emerge. Not too much time to take in whatever atmosphere is here at the airport, I’m just thinking about checking into a hotel, get a nice shower and then start wandering around Sultanahmet.

0839hrs: Arranged for a hotel pickup since I’m not in the mood to take a taxi. While waiting for the car to arrive, was able to chat with the caretaker over a cup of tea. This is my first cup of authentic Turkish tea made by a Turk, and it tastes like any ol standard Lipton tea left to brew for a long time so that it is thick.

On Kennedy Ave next to the sea of Marmara

The trip from the airport to Sultanahmet is quite scenic in itself. I have been going through the satellite maps of the route a few times, and I could tell which road the driver was taking. The view over the Sea of Marmara with what looks like oil tankers from the Balkans are just confirmation that I’m finally here. I don’t get to see too many large ULCCs here, perhaps because it has to squeeze through the small-ish Bosphorus straits.

The first thing one does in old Istanbul is to stumble upon a park between the mosque and Aya Sofia. This one looks towards the mosque.

Sultanahmet Mosque from the park

Detailed look at Sultanahmet Mosque

Aya Sofia from the park

This guy looks like thug-ish enough to have me use up a frame of film on him. Around Sultanahmet/Blue Mosque.

Unrelated street shot in the touristy part of Istanbul, but since this was taken on the same day, it justifies it's right to be on this page.

1113hrs: I have been out of the hotel for some time now, and having tea with Cengiz the carpet seller. Quite obvious he is taking his time to gain my trust and sell me a carpet or two. I was not too glad to have to oblige. If I’m short of time, I’d rather spend it moving around the city rather than chat about life, China, and women. While in there, I dreamt up my solution in the future: I will stick in my ipod ear buds so that I can ignore future carpet sellers without offending them. Anyway, if that is the sale tactic, I don’t think they would be offended.

Once out of the shop, I have to quickly parse together all the parameters for the day, what to do now and what to put off to another day. The sun is out, the sky is blue, and eventually the plan on day 1 would be to handle Topkapi Palace first and after that Sultanahmet Mosque next. The Aya Sofia can wait for another day, where I plan to spend at least half a day. As it is indoor (i.e. large building) I can do it even when the weather is not that great.

Entrance to Topkapi Palace

1152hrs: Strolling into Topkapi Palace (Topkapi Sarayi). Entrance fee is 20TL. I have no idea how much that is, and it feels cheap as the number is small. But I am aware that the new Turkish Lira is very very close to the US Dollar. Even small bottles of mineral water here feels cheap at 1TL at tourist areas, and 0.5TL in more conventional shops.

There are so much detail inside the palace, I'm just going to call this Interior Shot 1, and so on... No way I could remember where they were shot.

Interior Shot 2: At least I remember this one was shot at the Harem part of the palace

Interior Shot 3: So is this one

Interior Shot 4

More interior of the Harem section of the palace

Some parts of the palace can get dark and narrow. I doubt the Sultans ever venture here...

First stop at the palace is the Harem. An additional ticket is required. The Courtyard of the Harem Eunuchs is quite interesting. Blue tiles from Iznik are everywhere and Islamic calligraphy surround the courtyard. Apparently this place was renovated in 1665 after a fire.

Didn’t know that the main entrance of the Harem started inside the building. It opens into a courtyard, with a modern fire hydrant in the middle. Makes sense that the eunuchs live outside the Harem! Then again, if the eunuchs were castrated, then there is no harm that they hang around the harem! Anyway, the entrance is small, enough for a double door and greeted by two large mirrors.

Interesting ceiling design...

Like in China, guards here are quite laid back...

Interior Shot 5: Ceiling portholes for the skylight

Interior Shot 6: This has to be a major Sultan chillout or audience room, again at the Harem

After a few alleyways, you notice that this harem is lighted not with lamps, even with all the small dark alleyways. There are light shafts in the shape of hexagons topped with glass providing natural lighting. Again, all walls lined with motif tiles, I need to get one of those Iznik tiles for souvenir. They look nice in vibrant blue. The Queen Mother’s room has a nice dome covered in motifs, and chandelier hanging down from it. Some dodgy mannequins complete the look. They look like they used to adorn the display of a departmental store.

I’ve never intended to turn this blog into a page out of a Lonely Planet guide, so I shall refrain from describing every single second, if I can help it. But it is not everyday someone has a mobile phone blogging away while in the midst of visiting a historical place.

1316hrs: Resting after going through half of the Harem. This place is huge and plenty of rooms to go through if you take your time. While at the courtyard of the Sultan’s Favourites (wondering favourite what), the noontime prayer is in full swing. Here, part of the Bosphorus and Anatolia is visible, and so are the sounds coming from all the mosques in the city. Good that I have my audio recorder with me, and I’m recording it right now, while checking out the details that are all around me.

Details from the Courtyard of the Harem

This palace is just filled with tiles from Iznik...

... and very quickly I lose track of the number of designs that are in this single courtyard...

... and another, notice they're all in shades of cobalt blue...

...and just to break the flow, here's a little detail of the ceiling of the courtyard roofing